St John’s Co-Cathedral Malta: What to See Inside

During our trip to Malta, St John’s Co-Cathedral was one of the places I was most keen to see. It fitted easily into our Malta itinerary and became one of the highlights of our day visiting Valletta.

Before the visit, I had seen a couple of photographs of the cathedral interior. However, what really made me want to go inside was its marble floor. The floor is made up of a series of richly decorated tombstones for around 400 Knights and officers of the Order of St John. I had never seen anything quite like it before, and this was the main reason I wanted to visit the cathedral.

Even so, the interior was far more impressive than I had expected. From the outside, St John’s Co-Cathedral looks fairly simple. That makes the first view of its richly decorated interior even more striking. There is so much to take in, from the painted ceiling and ornate chapels to the marble floor, carved stonework and gold detailing.

In this guide, I will take a closer look at the cathedral’s painted ceiling, marble tombstone floor, chapels, carved and gilded details, and Caravaggio paintings. I will also share some useful visitor information to help you plan your own visit.

The moment I stepped inside St John’s Co-Cathedral, I was amazed. The gold decoration, painted ceiling, marble floor and richly detailed walls were all fascinating. There was so much to take in that I did not know where to look first. Every part of the interior seemed to hold another painting, carving or decorative detail.

I spent quite a while simply looking around and taking in the scale of it all. There was something interesting in almost every direction, and it quickly became one of the highlights of our time in Valletta.

A plain exterior hiding an extraordinary interior

From the outside, St John’s Co-Cathedral looks quite plain and restrained. Its pale stone frontage and simple design give very little hint of what lies within. This makes the contrast even more striking when you step inside and are met by richly decorated walls, gold detailing, paintings and marble.

The church was built for the Knights of the Order of St John and was completed in 1577. It is known as a co-cathedral because it shares the role of the Archbishop’s cathedral with St Paul’s Cathedral in Mdina. The interior was much simpler at first, but gifts and later work by the Knights gradually turned it into the rich Baroque space seen today.

The main nave

The long central nave draws the eye straight towards the main altar at the far end. A series of large arches runs along both sides, leading to the side chapels. The walls between them are covered with carved stone, gold decoration and detailed patterns, leaving very few plain surfaces.

The view is even more striking because the painted ceiling and marble tombstone floor seem to mirror each other. There is fine detail above and below, while the long aisle links everything together and guides your view towards the altar.

The painted ceiling by Mattia Preti

The long barrel-vaulted ceiling is divided into a series of painted sections showing scenes from the life of St John the Baptist. Rich shades of gold, brown, blue and red fill the ceiling, while gilded arches separate each scene. The figures and painted architectural details appear almost three-dimensional, making some parts look as though they extend beyond the ceiling itself.

The view also changes as you move through the nave. From one position, you notice the length of the ceiling and the way the scenes flow towards the altar. Standing directly below it brings out the smaller figures, decorative borders and fine details. 

Mattia Preti’s work on the vault is one of the cathedral’s main artistic features and was painted between 1661 and 1666. Mattia was an Italian Baroque artist born in Calabria in 1613. He came to Malta in 1659 and spent much of the rest of his life on the island. As well as decorating the vault, he created several altar paintings for the cathedral. He died in Malta in 1699 and is buried inside St John’s Co-Cathedral.

The carved and gilded details

While the ceiling and marble floor immediately grab your attention, the walls are just as detailed. Almost every surface seems to be decorated in some way. There are carved stone panels, gilded patterns, ornate arches and columns, sculpted figures and decorative borders. Look closely and you will also spot smaller details such as faces, coats of arms and other symbols worked into the decoration.

It is very easy to miss some of these details because there is simply so much to take in. The close-up above is a good example. Alongside the gold decoration and marble work are the eight-pointed Maltese crosses and a small urn decorated with carved skulls. Details like these appear throughout the cathedral, so it is worth slowing down and looking beyond the larger paintings, ceiling and floor.

The chapels of the langues

The Order of St John brought together knights from different parts of Europe. They were organised into regional groups known as langues, or languages, and each had its own chapel inside the cathedral. There are eight chapels linked to these langues: Castile, León and Portugal; Aragon, Catalonia and Navarre; Auvergne; Anglo-Bavaria; Provence; France; Germany; and Italy. Together with the Chapel of Our Lady of Philermos, there are nine side chapels in all. 

Each chapel has its own colours, paintings, monuments and decoration. The three below were among the ones that particularly caught my eye.

Chapel of the Anglo-Bavarian Langue

The chapel is dedicated to St Charles Borromeo, and the main painting shows St Charles being presented to the Virgin Mary. 

Compared with some of the other chapels, this one feels slightly more restrained, although there is still plenty of detail. The altar combines pale and reddish marble with gold decoration, while statues sit in niches on either side of the central painting. Above, blue-grey panels, gilded borders and decorative arches draw the eye upwards.

Chapel of the Langue of Provence

This chapel is dedicated to St Michael the Archangel. The large altarpiece shows St Michael defeating Satan and is framed by four striking twisted columns. 

This was one of the most eye-catching altar designs for me. The dark twisted columns are covered with gold decoration towards their bases, while gilded carving fills the surrounding walls and arch. The red and blue in St Michael’s clothing stand out strongly against all the gold. A high window above the altar also brings natural light into the chapel and helps pick out the finer details.

Chapel of the Langue of Castile, León and Portugal

The chapel is dedicated to St James, and its main altarpiece was painted by Mattia Preti in the 1660s. The decoration here feels particularly grand, with red, white and darker marble, gilded carved walls and large funerary monuments. You can see in the photograph below, how the dark monument and white sculpted figures sit alongside the richly framed altar painting, showing just how much sculpture, marble and painting have been brought together within a fairly small space.

These chapels were another good example of why it is worth taking your time inside St John’s Co-Cathedral. Even though they sit just off the main nave, each feels like a richly decorated space in its own right.

The marble tombstone floor

The marble floor was the part of St John’s Co-Cathedral that I had been most looking forward to seeing, and it did not disappoint. The entire floor is covered with around 400 inlaid marble tombstones connected to knights and senior members of the Order of St John. Each one is different, with its own design, coat of arms, Latin inscription and symbols linked to the person buried beneath it.

The amount of detail is remarkable. Coloured marble has been used to create coats of arms, angels, crowns, military symbols, skeletons and skulls. Some designs are quite elaborate, while others are simpler, but no two seem exactly alike. The symbols often refer to honour, status, death and the passing of time. With so much happening above your head in the cathedral, it would be very easy to focus only on the ceiling. Here, though, you really do need to keep looking down as well.

When we visited, a small section of the floor was being restored. I was pleased to see this because it gave us a glimpse of the care needed to preserve such a delicate surface. The thin pieces of inlaid marble can crack or wear over time, so the cathedral has an ongoing programme of conservation and repair. Seeing one of the restorers working directly on the floor made me appreciate the craftsmanship of the tombstones even more.

 

The Caravaggio paintings

One of the other major highlights of St John’s Co-Cathedral is its connection with the Italian artist Caravaggio. Two of his important works can be seen here: The Beheading of St John the Baptist, painted around 1608, and Saint Jerome Writing, painted around 1607. The Beheading of St John the Baptist is particularly impressive because of its huge scale. Measuring over five metres wide, it dominates the Oratory and is also the only known painting that Caravaggio signed.

For me, there was something special about seeing works like these within the cathedral rather than hanging in a normal art gallery. The Beheading of St John the Baptist was created for the Oratory and was installed here in 1608, so seeing it within this historic setting gives the painting a very different feel. Saint Jerome Writing is much smaller, but is another important work from Caravaggio's time in Malta.

This was also easily the busiest part of the cathedral during our visit. There were quite a few people gathered in front of The Beheading, as you can see in the photograph, so we had to wait a little and move around to get a clearer view. Even with the crowds, it was well worth spending some time here.

My favourite parts of the interior

The marble tombstone floor was probably the part that impressed me most. It was one of the main reasons I wanted to visit, and seeing it in person did not disappoint. Watching a small section being restored also gave me a much better appreciation of the care needed to preserve it. Considering its age, I thought the floor was remarkably well preserved.

Mattia Preti’s magnificent Baroque ceiling was another highlight. The scale of the paintings is impressive enough, but it was the level of detail and craftsmanship that really left me in awe. I also loved exploring the chapels. Each one has its own character, colours, paintings and decoration, so they feel very individual. Yet when you look at them as part of the cathedral, they all seem to fit together beautifully and add to the richness of the whole interior.

 

Practical information for visiting St John’s Co-Cathedral

Where is St John’s Co-Cathedral?
St John’s Co-Cathedral is in St John’s Square, right in the centre of Valletta. Its central location makes it easy to include while exploring the city on foot, and several of Valletta’s other main sights are close by. 

What are the opening hours?
The cathedral is open to visitors Monday to Saturday from 9:00 am to 4:45 pm, with last admission at 4:00 pm. If you enter at 4:00 pm, you will only have 45 minutes inside and the visit will not be extended. It is normally closed to visitors on Sundays and public holidays, although special opening arrangements are sometimes announced, so it is worth checking the official website before your visit. 

How much does it cost to visit?
At the time of writing, admission costs €15 for adults and €12 for seniors and students. Children under 12 can enter free when accompanied by an adult. There is also a Belfry Tour for €5, but the normal cathedral admission fee still applies. 

Your entrance fee includes a handheld audio guide with 20 stops. It is available in several languages, including English, Maltese, Italian, French, German and Spanish. The cathedral museum is currently closed while extension and refurbishment work takes place. 

Do you need to book tickets in advance?
Tickets can be bought online for a selected date. Once issued, a ticket allows one entry within seven days of that selected date. If you are visiting during a busy period, booking beforehand may make planning your day a little easier. 

How long should you allow?
The cathedral recommends allowing around one hour and 45 minutes. We spent around two hours inside, which felt about right as we wanted to explore at a relaxed pace. If you are particularly interested in the art and history, you could easily spend longer.

Can you take photographs inside St John’s Co-Cathedral?
Yes. Photography is allowed and, as you can probably tell from the number of photographs in this article, there is plenty to photograph. Flash photography is not permitted. Filming, audio recording and other moving-image or sound recording require prior written permission. 

Is there a dress code? 
St John’s is still a place of worship, so visitors are asked to dress appropriately. The cathedral recommends bringing a shawl if you need something to cover up. Stiletto heels and narrow heels are not allowed, which also makes sense given the historic marble floor. 

Can you take bags inside?
Small bags are best as there are no lockers at the cathedral. Large handbags and backpacks have to be carried by hand or worn at the front. Wheeled luggage is not permitted, and food and drink cannot be taken inside. 

Is St John’s Co-Cathedral accessible?
Wheelchair users and visitors with mobility difficulties can access the cathedral, although some areas have restricted access. Guide dogs, hearing dogs and other identifiable assistance animals are permitted. 

Can you visit St John’s Co-Cathedral on a Sunday?
The cathedral is closed to general sightseeing visitors on Sundays, although Mass and other religious services still take place. If you are planning your Valletta sightseeing around a weekend, I would therefore schedule the cathedral for another day. 

When is the best time to visit?
If you have some flexibility, I would try to visit earlier in the day. The cathedral attracts plenty of visitors and, during our visit, the Oratory containing Caravaggio’s The Beheading of St John the Baptist was easily the busiest area. Visiting closer to opening time may give you more space to appreciate the interior and take photographs.

Is St John’s Co-Cathedral worth visiting?

For me, absolutely. I loved visiting St John’s Co-Cathedral and it was easily one of the top three places we visited in Valletta. You certainly do not need to be religious to appreciate it. If you enjoy art, history, architecture or simply beautiful interiors, there is a huge amount to see here.

We spent around two hours inside because we wanted to explore everything at a relaxed pace. You could easily stay longer if the art and history interest you. If you are short on time, though, I think an hour would still give you enough time to see the main highlights, including the marble tombstone floor, painted ceiling, chapels and Caravaggio paintings.

If you can, I would visit earlier in the day, particularly if you want a quieter look at the Caravaggio paintings.

For us, St John’s Co-Cathedral was easily one of the top three sights in Valletta, and I would certainly recommend adding it to a Malta itinerary. I originally went because I wanted to see the extraordinary marble tombstone floor, but the ceiling, chapels, Caravaggio paintings and incredible level of detail throughout the building made the whole visit memorable.